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Posted: Jul. 22 2004, 15:02 ET

I am sure this has been asked before but being new at this I am going to ask.  I have a slightly sporterized Model 98 Mauser.  The magazine follower will not allow
the bolt to close if the magazine is empty.  A number of
years ago I ground a bevel on a similar magazine follower
with a dremel moto tool and had no problems with feeding.  I was reading through Roy Dunlops gunsmithing
book and he suggested that this might be risky.  I would like to know if it is safe to grind a bevel on the magazine follower.

Posted: Jul. 22 2004, 15:40 ET

This is commonly done on mauser sporters.  I have done it myself many times, and have seen it on other rifles more times than I care to guess at.  It can be done by grinding or milling a bevel on the rear of the follower. Use various grades of emery to smooth it down and polish it for smooth feeding. No problem from a safety standpoint or from a functional standpoint.  I respect Mr. Dunlaps opinion, but without seeing what he wrote, I can only comment on what I know.

Perk in Cincinnati

Posted: Jul. 22 2004, 16:30 ET

My personal boltgun started life as a 1957 La Coruna Spanish Mauser with an excessive-headspace barrel. It came straight from the factory/armory with the follower bevelled to close on an empty mag. If you'd like, I can take it to work with me and draw up a 'print of it.


Posted: Jul. 23 2004, 02:55 ET

the easiest way around this is to just push the follower down slightly with your finger, then close the bolt. the beveling method also works, just dont remove anymore metal from the follower than necessary.

Posted: Jul. 23 2004, 21:38 ET

You can bevel the magazine follower or you can simply change the follower.

Some Mauser followers do not hold the bolt open.  For example, you can replace the follower of a Swedish Mauser with that of a Spanish Mauser.  This way you will no longer have a hold open device on your Swedish rifle.

Of course this method only works if you can find the right follower at the right price at a gunshow....


Posted: Jul. 26 2004, 08:06 ET

I did this mod to my sporterized '57 Coruna Spanish Mauser (FR-8)...same as Raven.
I took a few minute with a file...or a few seconds with a wheel.  Works great.
Raven, I didn't have excessve headspace, but I did have what I believe is the longest throat ever cut into a rifle!
Did you remove the barrel & re-chamber?

Posted: Jul. 26 2004, 14:12 ET

As a matter of fact, I was talking about this in another thread... After discovering I could stick .030 worth of shims behind a loaded 8mm round and still close the bolt (Amazingly enough, I went through 20 rounds w/o a failure even at that!;), I yanked the original and replaced it with a 1937 production FN four-groove .30-06 stepped barrel from Sarco, I think it was. Mounted the barrel, did the shim test again, established I had .017" excessive headspace, dismounted, and took the bbl to my friend's lathe. My chamber is now so tight, I had an old reload from a friend's grandfather fail just behind the neck of the case, and it sealed so well, I never even knew it until I picked up the brass after the shooting day was over!


PS... If I'm not mistaken, the FR8 was a '96 Mauser, was it not? Mine's a standard large-ring '98

Posted: Jul. 26 2004, 16:07 ET

Nope...FR-8 is a '98 Mauser action, 18" stepped barrel chambered in .308".  It was my very first rifle on 1993.  I read an article on sporterizing after I got it and took it out to the garage in my left hand and a hacksaw in my right hand,  thus starting my home gunsmithing career.
My big problem is the throat is so long that I cannot seat a bullet out far enough to touch the lands and still be held in the case.

Posted: Jul. 27 2004, 19:53 ET

I'm hearing alarm bells going off here... If I recall my basic reloading correctly, you DON'T want the bullet to touch the rifling when it's loaded... It increases the case pressure enormously... Anyone else remember more specifically???


Posted: Jul. 27 2004, 20:36 ET

Have you cast the chamber?  If not please do.  Set your plug about 1Ē down the barrel from where your case neck should end, that way you get a look at the throat.  Measure the cast carefully and compare what you have to the .308 standards.  If your throat measures .308-.3095 you will probably be alright letting the bullet free bore with minimal lose in accuracy.  If it is more, you are washing ďHot Flaming GassesĒ past your bullet and you just canít win in that case.  Barrel set back time.
You do not want your bullet mashed into the rifling when chambered, lots of chamber pressure is the result.  I try for .010Ē back from the start of the rifling and have had very good results, but remember results may vary.  Ha Ha  If you really want to know more about this, or just get completely confused, ask some bench rest boys about it.
Good luck.

Posted: Jul. 27 2004, 20:49 ET

By the way, I donít see the safety issue in beveling the mag follower.  Everything in moderation of coarse.  I would like to know the best way to shorten the mag well of mauser actions to hold short cases, ie 22-250.  I ordered some of the ones Numrics offered in Shot Gun News, and am appalled.  How does every one else do it?

Posted: Jul. 28 2004, 07:50 ET

I was using 'touch the lands' as a 'landmark'.  I also want to come up just shy of the lands, athough I have read that lightly touching the lands is on the 'cutting edge' but can produce better accuracy wth careful monitoring of pressure.

I have a bar of cerrosafe but have never cast a chamber. What should I use for the plug and any tips on this process would be great.

Posted: Jul. 28 2004, 13:17 ET

I use a plug made from bearing nylon that is .002Ē or so oversized with grooves cut in it like some cast bullets have and is 50% longer than bore dia. and flat on the ends.  It pushes in easy, pushes out easy, and seals well.  If you have to tap on it a little, it wonít expand in the bore and get tighter, it returns to size.  
You can use a snug patch on a jag on a cleaning rod in from the muzzle down to just shy of where you want to stop and come from the breach with a small amount of lightly oiled news print.  Pack fairly well with a dowel, or some such thing, so you have a square end and the casting material wonít try to flow past your patch.
I use a material called ďAlumiliteĒ.  Itís a two part liquid casting plastic.  No shrink and in three minutes from the time part A meets part B, itís DONE.  A little dry silicone spray, to insure that nothing gets so friendly that it doesnít want to come apart, is always in order.
I label and keep all my castings for future comparison.
Happy casting.  :thumbs:

Posted: Jul. 28 2004, 17:31 ET

If I can get out of melting & pouring lead (been there, done that) then I am up for a new product.  I went to the Alumilite website and am now completely confused.
Can you please save me a lot of time & trouble and tell me exactly which Alumilite product you use for chamber casting, as there are many products in their line.
And where does one get nylon bearing material to make this plug?

Posted: Jul. 28 2004, 21:24 ET

I went to www.alumilite.com, home page, product line, and itís the top one.  Alumilite regular tan.  Thatís what Iíve got.  I use no filler to cast chambers.  They claim a 90 second pot life, BELIEVE IT.  When you mix A&B you better be ready to go.  Plan ahead.  When you do mix up a batch, donít stir too vigorously as you get air bubbles, the smoother the better.  90 seconds is plenty of time if your all set before hand.  I got mine in Englewood, CO.  The place is called ďPlastiCare, Inc. at www.plasticareinc.com.
I would tell you to get the 2 gal kit and a supply of those little cups to mix in.  There are also dyes available.  You will be amazed at what all this stuff is good for.  Itís a glue to end all glues.  If you pillar bed, put your pillars in with this stuff.  Stripped out stock or butt plate screw?  Drill out a little; pour the super stuff, in about 5-10 minutes drill a pilot, and your done.
As for the nylon.  I use J&L industrial at www.jlindustrial.com.  If you donít like them, MSC at www.mscdirect.com has a good selection of stuff also.  
When I make my plugs, I drill a 1/16Ē hole in them so I can put a piece of stainless TIG rod in them.  Leave the rod long enough to stick out the back an inch or two.  Now you have something to hang on to your casting by.   Thatís not my idea, I saw that some where else.

Posted: Jul. 29 2004, 08:36 ET


How does this stuff pour?  Looses, thick?  Use a funnel or go directly into the chamber?  This can be tricky with a bolt action if the stuff pours thick.

What 'dry siicone' release agent do you use?

How much do you fill the chamber?  Up over the breech-face?

Posted: Jul. 29 2004, 12:56 ET

It runs about like warm 30 weight oil.  Itís a very good void filler and if you pour pillars you have to have stuff sealed up pretty good or it drips on your shoes.  Remember that the more mass the more heat and the faster cure time.  You need to have this stuff and what youíre working with at 70 deg f or so.  If things are cooler it will set up slower.  Remember that, before you tap out your casting.
I pour directly from one of those small plastic mixing cups.  You can pinch the sides together and get a nice spout.  Plenty good enough to get to the chamber from the side of the action.
Fill up past the shoulder of the case, and stop before you fill the locking lugs.  Itís relative to what you want.  If you want a look at the throat then just cast the throat.  I normally pour till the material just starts to run past where the case goes, so thereís a tiny flair on the back of you casting.
I use a product called, ďSprayon, Premium Mold Release #S00302ď.  For general purpose mould release.  It contains 2% silicone, is non staining, non corrosive, and is good for a temp range from 40-550 deg f.  Clean the chamber and the bore, spray generously before you plug, spray lightly after you plug and things have had a chance to dry, then spray every thing that you might dribble on.  
PAM? Give me a break.
I also use a brush on release agent, but it leaves a measurable film and when you cast chambers you donít want that.  The spray works great.

Posted: Jul. 29 2004, 18:42 ET

I'll get it all out of you yet! :Bangin:
Sooooo, I went to jlindustrial.com and I could not find alumilite on their site.  I did a search and nothing.
Does anyone have aother source?

Posted: Jul. 29 2004, 19:31 ET

J&L donít got Alumilite.  Thatís where I got the nylon.  
Go to the Alumilite site, hit dealer and distributors, and hit your state.  Or call Larry Johnson at Plasticare, Englewood, CO at 1-800-878-4396, tellem what you want and Iíll betya theyíll fix you right up.  Alumilite is not DOT controlled, ships UPS regular or air. :thumbs:

 :anim_stick: Back at ya.